Routeburn Track (Day 3), South Island, New Zealand

Day 3 we know is downhill and a shorter hike so bird spotting takes precedence with Riffleman, New Zealand's smallest bird and somewhat threatened, in abundance along with Tom Tits and ever present Kaka calls keeping us entertained.

Pushing one foot in front of the other, as our legs now lack vitality, brings us in good time to the end of the track and onwards to a sand fly free pint in a nearby pub.

Routeburn Valley

Walking out of the valley

Changing forest vegetation

Final Stop

Routeburn Track (Day 2), South Island, New Zealand

The next day leaves through a 'hobbit' forest of stunted beech trees and a million varieties of moss, pushing uphill and uphill once more, zigzagging in a compressed 'seven dwarfs' like column until we pierce the canopy and hit the views.

This next section is now for us the best few hours of the trip as first you see the Lake Mackenzie valley then turn to view the Holyford valley outward to the sea in the far distance. There are many wild flowers of different size and nature, mainly white or yellow as they were historically pollinated by moths who like the contrasting 'sheek' look. The profusion is helped by constant walkers keeping grazing animals away.

The walk continues tucked tight into the Holyford Face, a stunning tightrope track just above the treeline but below the ridges, with incredible views but giving much desired shadows to walk in away from the sun gods powers. This path eventually peels up into sunlight and the Harris Saddle, the top most pass, where we take some more vantage from the Conical Hill return.

The Harris Saddle is very English Lake District with bald terrain, silent winds and the deep Lake Harris. Dropping down from here soon brings us to the Routeburn Falls Lodge for the night, with its Otago Pinor Noir awaiting and customary pancake throwing ritual which is jolly good fun.

"Will there be sand flies tomorrow?" a lady asks the guides. They answer nicely. "Will there be sand flies in the pub?" Steve asks the guides helpfully.

Views back to Mackenzie

High now above the Holyford Vallay

Walking the narrow track in the mountainside

Approaching the turn up to the Harris Saddle

Bye Holyford

High above the Harris Saddle

Lunch hut on the saddle

The Routeburn Valley with the lodge in the foreground

Routeburn Track (Day 1), South Island, New Zealand

The trees and the climb seem to be going on for an eternity. There is a layer of thin cloud high above visible through the canopy. The air temperature is not as high as it has been in New Zealand's 'everlasting summer' but already we are hot and perspiring away our sun tan lotion. Our limbs are questioning our brain. How long can this path go up?

We have left the car park after taking the bus from Queenstown through Te Anau to The Divide. We did not hang about as we just want to keep moving. We are walking the Routeburn Track for the next 3 days. 40km to go. We are off.

We had met our guides the afternoon before and been briefed. All straightforward to an international cross section of people. All done, any questions ? .... "Will there be sand flies?" a lady asks the guides several times. Obviously not a sand fly lover but the guides tell her they only bite when you stop so don't hang about, as we knew from the Milford Track.

We divert out of the long tree climb, leave our rucksacks and ascend the return trip to Key Summit. Views are great and there is some interesting nature including a miniature carnivorous plant the Sundew that eats sand flies (yah) . Stop at Earland Falls for lunch. The low rainfall means they are thinner than usual but still falling from way high, impressive none the less at 80m drop. After this it is normally a wet track but it has not rained for 6 weeks and ain't going to today either.

Day 1 ends at Lake Mackenzie Lodge and a few beers before dinner and a further briefing for the next day. "Will there be more sand flies?" a lady asks the guides, several times. She does not look like she has been badly affected but perhaps they are stalking her. Sunset is stupendous.

No partying tonight, in bed by 9.30pm. Knackered. Lights off.

Key Summit Views

Holyford Track

Mackenzie Lodge

View from Mackenzie Lodge - Good eh

Paragliding, Queenstown, New Zealand

We wanted to get stuck into some iconic Queenstown action, so paid a bleedin fortune to be hurled off the mountain on a paraglider. Above the first cable car there is a second that takes you high up the hill to a grassed area that you can run off. We kitted up together then Steve went off first, followed by the nimbler Linda. High up over the trees they get some heights then give us some spins to bring on the Gs. The view below is not scary until you get out over Queenstown itself and out towards the lake then it feels pretty high and exposed. The landing is proceeded with some more spins but no girly screams.

Ready to paraglide

Steve's off first

Some high spins

View from below

View from above

More Gs ..... still no girly scream though

Linda's off

Cool views over Queenstown

"Yeehaa"

"I've been stamped"

Queenstown, Otago, New Zealand

The endless summer continues and will be stealing Autumn soon. A year ago we were in Queenstown and you needed a jumper and a coat. Not at present.

We had jumped on the Earnslaw Streamer to the Walter Peak High Country Farm, obtaining lake views of the mountains and a sit down to a coffee for a relaxing few hours return.

The afternoon was spent relaxing on the Steamer Wharf at the cafe drinking some cold IPA. Emerson's Pilsner (drink now as soon to be made flavourless by Lion) and American Pale Ale from Dunedin.

Tea was made up of some Peregrine Pinot Noir 2010 and some pretty shabby fish (cardboard cut outs) and chips (lacked seasoning) from Queenstown. We decided to not wait until we got home but savour these in the local park. Sorry to all the wine purists, but we also drank out of the bottle. The Pinot was jolly good though. Burp !

Earnslaw Steamer

Steve'o

High country Station - with steam

Queenstown Cable Car View

Lunch and a few drinks for the afternoon

Fush and chups, with Peregrine Pinot Noir 2010 in park

Classic New Zealand - Nelson

As we travel New Zealand we come across many things that make us laugh, here is our latest selection from Nelson.

She'll be right !

Warning low footpath - obviously made for Hobbits!

Got to put those old folks somewhere

Realistic Museum Exhibitions - obviously the trip back from the vineyard tour

Farewell Split, New Zealand

Farewell Spit is a protected headland consisting mainly of sand which is a bird reserve of national important although we didn't actually get round to doing a tour to it just sat observing through a pint glass.

Unfortunately the only birds we saw from our vantage point were bizarrely thousands of black swans floating on the ocean in front of us quite close to the shore - nobody could explain why?

Anyway very interesting part of the coast where we spent a very pleasurable afternoon mooching around as one does on holiday!

Basic Information Centre and cafe at the spit

Cafe serving not a lot but with good views

Farewell Spit is very long indeed

A bit of it

Marahau, Abel Tasman National Park, New Zealand

We based ourselves at Marahau which is the closest enclave by road to the Abel Tasman National Park and we used it as our camp base for the week staying at Abel Tasman Centre Campsite (pitch 21 for the record) using the water taxis to get about and booking guided trips.

Camping for 6 nights was made easier by our tent being as large as a small castle with multiple rooms and height to stand full upright and stretch plus airbeds. We know how to rough it.

The first night got a bit chilly but with a quick upgrade in sleeping bag we were soon on track. One of our main aims apart from rest was to get around the park and do do some kayaking and walking. For the kayaking we did a few days of 'Half Day Blasts' which were guided sea kayak trips from Marahau to Watering Cover via either Adele Island (named after the explorer D'Urvlles wife in 1827) or Fisherman Island. Both being mammal free reserves where the bird life chirps happily.

The tide rises and fall some 4 meters so goes out a long way and exposes sand banks that the water taxis and kayaks have to use tractors to traverse. The taxis do a bit of added value by doing some sight seeing on route. The most popular sight is the split Apple Rock, which you may guess yourself what it looks like but see photo below if not.

As the first kayak trip with Roy our guide was a high tide we could do a rare start from the Marahau River paddling down to the ocean. We paddled around coves and across to Fishermans Island, a bird sanctuary, where there were adult and baby seals to chat to as well as many birds. We explored caves and enjoyed juice and biscuits on beautiful beaches whilst watching the more adventurous jump off high rocks. We even did a spot of fishing on the way home, fabulous fun!

On the second trip our party was smaller and we visited many small caves and tunnels which you were able to go into or through with the kayak as we had high tide with low swells. We also did 2 walking trips of the Abel Tasman Coast Track. The first we set off by water taxi to Torrent Bay and then a 3.5 hours walk to Bark Bay. This is a very popular walk as it is both in the middle of the park, has a swing bridge mid way and is also walked in both directions. You will be lucky not to see someone every 10 minutes but everyone seems very jolly and say a hearty hello on passing. The second walk we did was from Torrent Bay back to Marahau. This at high tide is a much longer walk as you have to pass around a lagoon and took us about 5 hours including stops at Cleopatra's Pool, Akrastan Bay and Apple Tree Bay. It was an easy walk, nonetheless quite hot and long. Amazingly many people do believe that the correct attire is to wear their flip flops, skimpy clothes and to carry no water while others were admittedly kitted out for Everest. We believe we hit the mid point of normality ourselves and eventually waddled into the pizza cafe and pub to rest our weary legs to end.

When we arrived at the start of the holiday the sand flies (who bit like hell) were not present but they popped up with a vengence in the last couple of days and nibbled away. Many are now nuked and dead.

Anyway, a very enjoyable weeks adventure !

Marahau at low tide

Casting off onto the Marahau River

Down the Marahau River inlet

Apple juice break

Crossing to Adele Island

Camping at Marahau

Torrent Bay

Swingbridge

Linda and Steve kayaking

Steve sunbathing the Yorkshire skin way - everyone else carried essential provisions only!

Sandfly point (there were none!) -  very beautiful

Tractors ready to haul in the water taxis at low tide

Camp site - we had the biggest tent by far and the smallest boot - oh yeah!

Walking the Abel Tasman Coast Track

The Split Apple Rock

Rough Day

Going out to the sea with kayaks behind tractor

Keeping close to the coast

Kayak caving !

Popping out

Journey end at Watering Cove with the famous Kiwi Rock at high tide