Routeburn Track (Day 1), South Island, New Zealand

The trees and the climb seem to be going on for an eternity. There is a layer of thin cloud high above visible through the canopy. The air temperature is not as high as it has been in New Zealand's 'everlasting summer' but already we are hot and perspiring away our sun tan lotion. Our limbs are questioning our brain. How long can this path go up?

We have left the car park after taking the bus from Queenstown through Te Anau to The Divide. We did not hang about as we just want to keep moving. We are walking the Routeburn Track for the next 3 days. 40km to go. We are off.

We had met our guides the afternoon before and been briefed. All straightforward to an international cross section of people. All done, any questions ? .... "Will there be sand flies?" a lady asks the guides several times. Obviously not a sand fly lover but the guides tell her they only bite when you stop so don't hang about, as we knew from the Milford Track.

We divert out of the long tree climb, leave our rucksacks and ascend the return trip to Key Summit. Views are great and there is some interesting nature including a miniature carnivorous plant the Sundew that eats sand flies (yah) . Stop at Earland Falls for lunch. The low rainfall means they are thinner than usual but still falling from way high, impressive none the less at 80m drop. After this it is normally a wet track but it has not rained for 6 weeks and ain't going to today either.

Day 1 ends at Lake Mackenzie Lodge and a few beers before dinner and a further briefing for the next day. "Will there be more sand flies?" a lady asks the guides, several times. She does not look like she has been badly affected but perhaps they are stalking her. Sunset is stupendous.

No partying tonight, in bed by 9.30pm. Knackered. Lights off.

Key Summit Views

Holyford Track

Mackenzie Lodge

View from Mackenzie Lodge - Good eh